Ahead of our planned visit to the Gawthorne Textiles Collection I did some 'homework' about the place! Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth was a lifelong collector of textiles as well as a prolific lace maker and embroiderer. Born into an aristocratic and wealthy family in 1886, she was a philanthropist who devoted her life to improving the social welfare of people near to her ancestral home Gawthorpe Hall, Padiham near Burnley. During her lifetime she opened her home as a "Craft House" and schools, colleges and craft groups visited to see her collection and learn from her. I was intrigued to find that Wikipedia listed her 'Occupations' as 'Embroiderer, Textile Collector, Girl Guide leader'. The textile collection started around 1912 when Rachel started gathering items to help with her teaching and it grew through donations from family and friends to some 11,000 items. At present this numbers over 30,000 items and it is one of the most diverse textile collections in the UK.
On Saturday 25th April twenty three YES members boarded a bus in Haxby to visit the Gawthorpe Textiles Collection which is housed in part of a converted mill building in Brierfield, Lancashire. After some tea and cake, the friendly and knowledgeable curator Rachel gave us a presentation on 'The Collection Showcase: Embroidery'. This included images (and close ups) of a dozen surface embroidery techniques from around the world and across several centuries; including minutely stitched Elizabethan embroidery, lustrous Chinese silk work and goldwork from Persia. The work shown was very varied and beautifully done so we really appreciated the skill of the designers and embroiderers of the garments and textiles. It is a pity so little is known about these people as individuals and can only hope they were recognised (and rewarded) as exceptional in their own time. Rachel spoke about the stitches/techniques used and in some cases the symbolism in the pieces. We appreciated the research effort that had gone into providing more context for the wonderful work.
A panel of zardozi goldwork embroidery from a bodice or waistcoat, late 18th century Indo-Persian. An ornate pattern of stylised floral motifs with curving stems and leaves using at least four different types of metal purl thread, embellished with beaten metal strips and tiny knots of silk threads to give the impression of small pearls and gemstones.
Detail of embroidered skirt for a Manchu lady. 19th Century, bought by Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth at Liberty in London. An example of leno weave with silk embroidery featuring Peking knots and gold metal couching.
We were also allowed to see items from the archive. Rachel had prepared some drawers for us to see 'unpacked' and patiently answered our questions about textile preservation, conservation issues, curation policies and practices. She was really knowledgeable about the beautiful items in the collection and very enthusiastic about sharing them.
Items displayed (but in the archival storage area)
Archival storage materials
We were well looked after by Rachel, her mum (volunteer and dispenser of refreshments) and Usmaa (British Textile Biennial partner). Overall it was a really interesting place to visit and we had to restrain ourselves from touching anything and peeping inside the intriguing boxes! The collection also contains patchwork, printed textiles, arts & crafts textiles, bags & purses, lace, needlework tools, samplers, whitework, and costume/clothing so we felt that we barely scratched the surface.
The organisation's comprehensive website is gawthorpetextiles.org.uk where you can find information about the collection, exhibitions and when the archive is open to the public for behind the scenes tours and study visits. There are also five dedicated display rooms at nearby National Trust property Gawthorpe Hall where selected pieces from the exhibition are exhibited should members who weren't able to come on this trip fancy a day out!
